If you turned your aerator off and stored it for the winter they are a few quick steps you can take to have your aeration system prepped and installed for the spring. If your winter has been anything like ours, spring already seems upon us.

Here’s 4 ways to prep and install your aeration system for spring.

1.)  Change the air filter: The air filter is vital for providing clean air through the compressor. With a clogged air filter, performance diminishes and over time can cause irreversible damage to the compressor. We recommend changing your air filter every 3-6 months depending on the environment.

2.)  Check for Air: Before installing the unit and connecting airlines it is best to do a quick check for air. Turn the unit on and ensure air is coming out of the flex hose(s). If you have a multiple diffuser plate system, make sure that the valves are not completely shut off. In the event where air is not coming from the flex hoses, you may need a maintenance kit to replace the diaphragm.

3.)  Reinstall the unit: To reinstall the unit, you’ll want to reposition the cabinet so it is sitting level, reconnect the airlines and plug it in. Adjust the airflow as needed, which you’ll need to do anyway if you have multiple diffuse plates. Adjust the flow so each air plate receives equal amounts of airflow and keep in mind that longer runs and deeper plates will require more airflow to operate than shallow plates and shorter lines. It usually takes a few minutes between adjustments to see the effect at the diffuser plant, so be patient!

4.)  Proper start up: Introduce your aeration system slowly in the beginning, and gradually increase its running time each day. Start by running it for an hour the first day, two hours the second day, doubling the amount of time each day until you can successfully run it for 24 hours. If you run the system immediately for 24 hours upon returning it to the pond, you could cause the warm and cold layers of water to mix too quickly which may harm fish.

These quick steps will ensure your aeration system is back up and running to keep your pond clean, clear and healthy for years to come.

The REACTIVE Approach to Pond Management

Some pond owners go as far as treating their ponds once a week with chemicals to help manage their weed and/or algae problems.  Not only is this process more costly, it is also creating more work for the pond owner.  Every time weeds and algae are treated, they fall to the pond’s bottom and if not removed mechanically, they will biodegrade and encourage future growth.  Chemicals are an important part of most management plans but they can’t – and shouldn’t – be the entire plan.

Also, consider that when treating weeds and algae, sudden changes to water conditions (caused by the quickly decaying plants) can negatively affect other aquatic life in your pond.   It is best to run your aeration system during all chemical applications.   This will help maintain high oxygen levels for fish and other aquatic, life as well as enhance the effectiveness of the application.

PONDLESS WATERFALL

 1.  Leave it running.   If you live where temps are mild, you can leave it running.   You just need to add water to the basin as you will still have evaporation. When winter is severe, the streams can ice up so much that a dam is created which may cause the feature to run over the side and leak.

2.  Shut it down.      You have two choices here:  

a. If you have a check valve, disconnect it from the pipe and unplug the pump.   You can leave the pump in the pond basin.  Please make sure the water level is adequate.

b.   Or remove the pump and check valve from the basin.  Store in water in a bucket in a frost free area.

POND

Discontinue bacteria treatments when the water temperature reaches 50 to 55 degrees.  When the temperatures are  35 to 50 degrees, you can use the Cold Water Bacteria.  The main reason for using bacteria is to help increase the good bacteria count so the pond will stay in balance. 

What do I do with my plants?

Cut back the marginals to just below the water level and cut the lilies to 3 inches above the rhizone. Throw the summer tropicals, such as Hyacinth, into your compost pile. Clean up debris as much as you can from the bottom of the pond.  Remove as many of the leaves as you can by using a small rake.

Netting the Pond?

In the fall, it is recommended that you use pond netting if you have leaves or pine needles that will fall into the pond.  If you do not net the pond, then any material that falls into the pond will have to decompose and as it decomposes, it will produce harmful gasses throughout the winter.  Look at the various sizes and types of pond netting we carry on our store.

Some pond owners will leave the net on to protect their fish from predators.

When do I stop feeding my fish and what happens to them in the winter?

Stop feeding fish at water temperatures of 55 degrees.   Start back feeding in the spring when water  reaches about 55 degrees. Fish cannot digest food late in the season and feeding late can be detrimental to their health.

Fish will hibernate in the winter.   Your fish will do just fine in 2 feet of water as long as you keep a hole in the ice to allow for gas exchange to take place.   They will rest on the bottom of the pond barely moving.

Choices for Winterizing a Pond

1.  Leave the pump running.  Winters can be severe and if you live in a milder climate leaving the waterfall pump running will work for you.  However, if you live where you have snowfall and below freezing temperatures, you might want to pull the waterfall pump, disconnect the check valve from the pipe and install a bubbler and a heater to keep a hole in the ice for the fish.   The purpose of the DeIcer is to make sure that the toxic gasses can escape from your pond.

Winter scenes are beautiful when you are running your waterfall.   Please be aware that you will have to check your water level and the ice forms on the waterfall and ice dams can block the path for water to return to the pond.   Just keep an eye on it.

2.  Shut Down The Pond

You will want to disconnect and pull the pump out of the skimmer.   Make sure the check valve is disconnected from the pipe that runs to the waterfall. Do not just shut down your pump with the checkvalve still attached to the pipe as it will freeze and crack the checkvalve. Check valve can be left attached to the waterfall pump.   Put the pump in the frost free area in a bucket of water.  The water will keep the seals moist.   A bubbler in the pond will keep a hole in the ice till about 25 degrees.   At this point you will need to add the Heater/DeIcer to the pond which will keep a hole in the ice so the gasses can escape.

We recommend the AquaForce Pump and the 200 watt Heater/Deicer.  Click on the product and it will take you to the page. Place the bubble so that the water bubbles about 1 inch above the surface.   But once the water temps drops below 30 degrees F, the heater should kick in.  Place these two items far enough apart to prevent the pump from moving heated water away from the heater.  When water temps are above 30 degrees, your fish, especially koi, still need some aeration which provides oxygen for them.

If you shut down your pond here’s a little tip, we recommend you remove the filter mats, lava rocks and/or Bioballs from the Waterfall Box.   Clean them and store them for the spring. Saves you time in the spring and the mats will last longer.

Call us at 877 780-1174 if you have any questions.

Happy Winterizing,

Aquascapes.com

As your pond begins to slowly awaken from its long winter slumber, you will first notice that your fish will begin to move around on a warm day. Do not feed your fish until the water temperature is above 55 degrees. Buy a pond thermometer as you will use it in the spring and fall. When you have warm sunny weather, the fish may swim around and then on a cold day go back to the bottom. Still do not feed them. Always test the water with a pond termometer before adding water treatments or food for the fish. You will find you cannot go without a pond thermometer.

Now is the time to decide when the time is right for a spring clean out. First, if there is a layer of debris and leaves at the bottom of the pond and the water looks like the muddy Mississippi, it would be a good idea to do a full clean out. On the other hand, if there is just a small amount of debris, you can just get into the pond and remove the debris by using your hands or a handled tool to pick it out. But remember most ponds do need a spring clean out and if you do not do a complete clean out at least, clean all debris from bottom of pond, clean all mats and filter material, clean the bottom of the skimmer and BioFalls boxes and do at least a 10% water exchange and use the water conditioner.

Another change in the pond is that you will begin to see algae growing as the temperature rise and the sunlight increases. Normally in the summer with the balance of the plants in your pond, algae does not grow as rapidly but since it is early in the season, you have yet to establish a balance with the good bacteria in your filters and the growth of plants. So you may expect to see algae in your pond in the spring and especially on the rocks of the waterfall.

We do have a solution to the algae problem!  Now is the time to install an IonGen™ electronic clarifier for your pond/pondless.   While your pond is sparkling clean is the best time to install.   You will still need to use the beneficial bacteria especially in the spring to jump start the establishment of the good bacteria colony.  This IonGen will keep the streams and waterfalls clean and clear of debris and it will keep your water crystal clear.  No more algaecides, sludge cleaners etc.

Clean Out Time

The best time to perform your clean out is the early spring, before your pond awakens completely from its winter dormancy. Do this when water temperature is between 45 and 60 degrees. The reason to clean out your pond in the cool weather is that the beneficial bacteria which grows in your filters and rocks has not yet been established for this new season.  Cold water does not go green as often as warm water.

NOTE: If you perform this clean out late, after water temperature is over 60 degrees you might throw your ecosystem out of whack and will possibly go through a green phase before your bacteria colonies can re-establish themselves. If this happens, it takes approximately 2 to 4 weeks to clear up the water in your pond.

When considering doing a total pond clean out on your own, keep in mind that it is necessary to have the proper equipment and a complete day to finish the job. It is a messy job and the water is usually cold. Read over this article very carefully and decide if this job is or is not for you. If not, simply call the person who installed your pond and they should offer this service. We offer this service in the tri-state area of Cincinnati.

If you are going to do this yourself, here are the items you will need to do a complete pond clean out:

1. CONTAINER to hold fish and frogs, if you have large fish you need a big container. Use the water from the pond. You also need a lid to keep the fish from jumping out. (Piece of plywood will work or use your fall net to cover)

2. BUBBLER or small pump or pond stone aerators to aerate your water, the risk of death for your fish is severe if your fish are left without oxygen for more than a few hours.

3. Dechlorinator to neutralize the chlorine in the new water.  We recommend this because it not only neutralizes the water but adds ingredients that reduce the stress for the fish and instantly ages the water. (Chlorine is deadly to fish) Dechlorinators are located under Water Conditioners.

4. FISH NET

5. Two large BUCKETS to collect leaves and debris.

6. WADING BOOTS or better yet WADERS to keep you completely dry (Can be purchased at any large sporting goods store and are worth the expense, under $50)

7. RUBBER GLOVES

8. RENT a pump with a discharge hose (25 ft) or purchase our CLEAN OUT PUMP.

9. CHICKEN WIRE to cover the pump opening to prevent fish from going into pump.

10. A POWER WASHER with aHIGH PRESSURE NOZZLE for your garden hose.

11. WET VAC to vacuum out the skimmer and BioFalls boxes.

12. GARDEN SHEARS for trimming plants and a KNIFE if you have to divide plants. See article on Plant Division.

13. SOIL (aquatic soil or cat liter or heavy clay) to repot or replant plants into pockets.

14. GRAVEL to cover the replanted area. Always cover with gravel.

15.  PLASTIC RACK – A child’s plastic rake will help remove the leaves and debris from the bottom of the pond and allows you to get into tight spots.

16. Replacement parts
REPLACEMENT FILTER MATS for Skimmer (holds 1 to 2) and BioFalls (holds 3) if needed. Be prepared, if you have to replace filters, it’s best to order a few weeks ahead. Filter mats last about 2-3 years for both skimmer and BioFalls. The Signature Series Style last 3 to 5 years. Replace if they are tore or beginning to deteriorate.
You should make sure you know which size Skimmer and BioFalls you own. Browse the Skimmers and BioFalls on the Online store .If you do not know the size, measure the BioFalls and look at the size on the website to match your measurements. Most skimmers are large or standard and the mats are the same size for these two skimmers. The Grande Skimmer is very large. The signature series are circular in shape.

17. Products you may need to purchase: Pond Detoxifier EcoStarter and Beneficial Bacteria to kick start your ecosystem. Bacteria is supplied in liquid or dry form.  A cold water bacteria is available for water temperatures between 45 and 55 degrees.

We have found that the lava rocks should be replaced every two to three years as they become clogged and become ineffective. BioBalls are designed to provide over 30 square inches of surface area per piece for beneficial bacteria to attach. They can be put into  media bags. A set contains 100 pieces. Use one set for MicroFalls, two sets for Mini or small Signature Series, three to four sets for Standard BioFalls and 6000 Series.

EcoBlast is a product that helps remove the algae from the rocks of the waterfall. It is a dry application and is safe for fish and plants.
Click here on EcoBlast to get more information on sizes of this product.

We recommend the Pond Defense PAC which includes enough for 6 months for a 2000 gallon pond.   This includes bacteria Sludge Remover, Spring and Fall Bacteria and bacteria booster or Spring Starter Set which includes Pond Detoxifier, Cold Water Bacteria 250 ml., Bacteria Bubbler 36 tabs, Sludge and Filter Cleaner  250 ml, Plant Fertilizer Tabs , Pond Thermometer, and EcoBlast 8.8 oz.  This is enough to get your pond started for the spring but not enough to get through the season.

For those of you who want to do a spring clean out yourself,  look over the list of products and order the items you need. After the first year, the clean out pump will have paid for itself.

Instructions
1. A screen around your pump will prevent fish from being sucked in while you drain the pond.
Use 1.5 or 2 inch flexible PVC pipe or similar material to discharge the water. First fill up your container for the fish with this water. Again make sure your container is large enough for your fish and frogs and cover with a piece of plywood or a net to keep them from jumping out. Then you can control the discharge of water but directing it into landscaped areas.
It will fertilize as it waters.

2. When the pond water settles down to 9 to 12 inches deep, unplug the pump and net the fish. It is easier to catch the fish when the water is low. Once you have all your fish and frogs in the container, cover it, since Koi and frogs will jump out.

3. If your pond is 3 years or older, you may need to divide your plants now. Read the Plant Division article for instructions for dividing and replanting your plants.

4. Now begin to hose down the rocks and gravel using a high-pressure nozzle or a power washer and let the pump discharge away the debris. Some algae should remain on the rocks to help develop your ecosystem. Average pond 11 x 16 should take 1 1/2 hours to empty.

5. The most time consuming part of your clean out will be washing off and removing debris from your rocks and gravel. Do not power wash your gravel on high, simply use the hose to wash the gravel or lower the pressure on the nozzle of the washer. Keep pump running to pick up sediment trapped in the gravel. Clean the top shelves first, and work your way down to the center of your pond. When water starts to clear you are finished. It should take about 1 to 2 hours.

6. Remove the mats and bags of lava rock from the BIOFALLS

7. Remove skimmer mat, rack, net/debris basket and pump. Clean out the skimmer box by sucking out the water with a wet vacuum and hosing it down. Clean out the net and wash or replace the filter mat if deteriorated. Remove any debris from the skimmer. Put everything back into the skimmer. Make sure pump is connected to the pipe.

8. When the pond is clean to your satisfaction, remove clean out pump and begin filling the pond. Remember it is good to leave a little bit of green algae on the rocks. Once your pond is half full you need to add the de-chlorinator. If you have city water, it is imperative that you add EcoStarter/de-chlorinator to neutralize the chlorine in the water or the chlorine will kill your fish. Fill the pond the rest of the way and then re-introduce your fish to the pond as directed.

Dip 5 gallon buckets in the holding tank and fill with several inches of water. Add your fish into the buckets and float the bucket in the new water.

9. After approximately fifteen minutes, begin splashing pond water into the bucket. By now the temperatures of the pond and the bucket water should be close to the same. You are ready to return your fish to the pond.

NOTE: Clean out in one day. Fish should not be left in holding tank more than a few hours without a bubbler. If you have plant division to do, it would be best to aerate this tank with a small aeration pump or bubbler to safeguard your fish. See article on Plant Division.

ADD BACTERIA ACCORDING TO THE START UP INSTRUCTIONS as long as the water temperature is 55 degrees or above. Then use the bacteria on a regular basis throughout the growing season.  If at anytime during the season, you get cloudy water, dose your pond with the bacteria and continue to use until water is clear. This can happen when you have periods of heavy rain.  Don’t feed the fish until you are sure the water temperature is going to stay at 55 degrees or above.

Happy pond cleaning

Aquascapes.com
info@aquascapes.com
877 780-1174

The Aquascape Pro pumps   which include the SFA Pro pumps and the Tsurumi pumps carry a two year warranty. Warrantees are honored through whomever you purchased the pump from. AquaSurge Pumps carry a three year warranty and are high efficient but for average to low head elevations.

But before you call your service contractor, please go through the following steps to make sure the pump is not able to work.

Do pumps require maintenance?

No, the pumps do not require any specific maintenance. There are no repairable parts on the ADI pumps. You can only purchase the impeller kit.

Is the pump receiving water?

Check your water level and make sure the skimmer has water in it. Even in the winter you need to add water to your pond. If the skimmer box runs dry your pump will not work.

Make sure nothing is blocking the flow of water to the pump. Check for debris in the box or rocks blocking the entrance to the skimmer. Check for clogged skimmer net or clogged skimmer filter mat. The net and mat can be cleaned often to assist the pump’s efficiency.

Slow flow to the falls could mean that the pump is still running but you may have a broken check valve.   There is a flapper inside the check valve and if the check valve rattles when shaken, then it probably is broken and this will affect the flow of water.   Checkvalves are sized by the type of skimmer you have.  Click on Checkvalves and look at the check valve pictures.

 
Is the pump not working at all but you hear a hum?

The pump may be vapor locked. It simply means that air is trapped in the volute of the pump. The pumps are designed to push water, not air…so an air bubble gets trapped and the pump becomes vapor locked.

In this situation the impeller is basically spinning, but water is not being pushed. Listen to see if you hear the hum of the pump. A vapor lock can be fixed by tilting the pump to allow the air to escape from the intake. You may even be able to accomplish this without disconnecting the fitting on the end of the check valve.

Do you have electricity?

Make sure the safety breaker on the ground fault circuit interrupter has not tripped. GFCIs are very sensitive and can sometimes trip during a thunderstorm or a power surge. Reset the breaker if it has tripped.

Haven’t fixed the problem yet?

Then, unplug your pump and disconnect the union fitting found at the top of the check valve. The water will back flush from the BIOFALLS back into the skimmer. This will help flush out any possible clogs along the length of the pipe. This can cause a decreased flow to your BIOFALLS.

Pull the pump out of the skimmer and inspect the intake on the pump for any lodged debris. Our pumps are capable of handling solids and debris up to a reasonable size, typically 5/8 inches. Debris can become lodged in the impeller and can seize up the impeller or restric the flow causing the pump to stop operating properly. Thoroughly check the pump intake, including the area above the impeller where small debris, such as gravel may be trapped.

Plug in the pump after inspecting it for debris and see if the impeller spins. You can run the pump out of water for a few seconds. If the impeller does not spin, try to assist it by using a screwdriver or similar tool to give it a little kick start.

On some occasions, the impeller may seize up and not spin. This sometimes happens after the pump has been out of operation for a period of time. Hopefully, the pump will then begin to operate. Let it run for 5 to 10 seconds. Unplug the pump, wait a few seconds and plug it back in. The impeller should begin to spin without assistance this time.

Pump can be vapor locked.   Pumps that are shut down suddenly can become vapor locked where an air bubble has been formed under the impeller and it will not allow the impeller to turn.   Just rock the pump back and forth and this should release the air bubble.

If you still have no luck, bring the pump over to a different electrical receptable on the property, specifically one that contains a GFCI breaker, and see if the pump operates. This will tell you if the pond’s electrical supply is bad, or if there is something internally wrong with the pump. If the pumps trips this GFCI, then there is definitely something wrong with the pump and it should be replaced.

If your pump is under warranty, you must contact the contractor who installed the pump or the supplier who sold the pump to you. An exchange will be made for your defective pump but only through the original person you bought from.

Maintenance for Performance of your Pump
Proper maintenance of the water feature will also ensure the best possible lifespan of the pump. Please make sure to consider the following:

• Do not allow the filters to become clogged with debris and sediment. Conduct regular cleaning and seasonal maintenance according to your owners manual.
• Keeps water flowing freely to the pump by routinely cleaning the skimmer debris net and filter mat. Be sure to maintain proper water level in the water feature. Avoid allowing the pump to run dry or operate in low water level situations.
• Inspect and remove large debris, such as mulch, sticks, small pebbles, etc. from the bottom of the Skimmer, or Snorkel Vault in a pondless. This will prevent the pump from becoming clogged and possibly damaged.

If you have any questions, you can give us a call. 877-780-1174

Aquascapes.com
info@aquascapes.com

Pumps and plumbing make up the circulatory system of a water feature. More important, they supply the system with necessary oxygen and keep the water circulating.

Water garden vocabulary:

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) is designed to protect people and pets from severe or fatal electric shocks.

GPH – Gallons per hour. Means the gallons that the pump is circulating every hour and can be referred to as rated flow. Small to average water gardens and Koi ponds need to circulate every hour with a full exchange of the water in that hour. Larger gardens every 1 1/2 hour exchange.

GPM – Gallons per minute.

Pond Volume – The amount of water in a pond.

Formula for calculating the gallons in your pond.

• Irregular Pond = length x width x average depth x 7.48
• Circular Pond gallons = 3.14 x r2 x average depth x 7.48

Head Height – The height from the surface of the pond to where the water comes into the biofalls (usually at the bottom of the unit)  , which means the amount of elevation change a pump can take to pump water.

TDH (Total Dynamic Head) – The combination of the total height and the total run a pump has to push. Total dynamic head refers to the pressure on a pump caused by the interactions of flow rate, pipe diameter, pipe length, elevation, and pipe material.

The other contributing factor to the size pump you will need is the width of the waterfall when it enters the pond. You will need 1500 to 2000 GPH in a pump for each foot of stream width at the entry point into the pond basin. Large systems sometimes require 3000 GPH per foot especially if you want white water.

Basically, it takes all those things into account and lets you know the limitation of your pump.

Flow Rates – The amount of water moving in a given time period.

Mag Drive - Type of pump that relies on magnetic forces to drive the impeller. Pumps a smaller amount of water than direct drive pumps, but are more efficient and usually used for fountains and small basin applications.

Direct Drive - Type of pump in which a motor drives a shaft that spins the impeller. More durable than a mag drive and usually used to provide water to a waterfall.

Watts – Electrical power consumption of a motor. Watts = volts x amps

Amps - The rate of flow of an electrical current.

Check Valve – Valve that prevents water from back flushing from the BioFalls to the skimmer where the pump is located.

PVC (poly vinyl chloride) – A common thermoplastic resin.

All of the Aquascape and AquascapePro line of pumps are made specifically for water gardens. They are submersible pumps which also need to be placed in a skimmer or wet well.

Specifications can mean the difference between a gushing waterfall and a trickle that sounds merely like a leaky faucet.

Operating Cost
Look for high efficient pumps. Obviously the bigger the pump is, the larger your operating cost per month can be. High efficiency pumps use less power.

Waterfalls and Pump size
Establishing the flow rate for your pond is probably the most important thing to do when it comes to your waterfall.

Experts say that for each foot of spillway width as it enters the basin, you should allow 1500 to 2000 GPH. For example, a 2 foot waterfall width usually requires between a 3000 gph to a 4000 gph pump.

Then, there is the waterfall and stream height to factor in and the term, shut off height, comes into play. Most people believe that a pump rated at 3000 gph will always push that amount of water. But once you subject your pump to higher waterfalls or longer streams, it will push less water. Once it hits that shut off height, you are not going to get any more water.

Call us a 877-780-1174 if you have any doubt in the size pump you may need.

Plumbing

Plumbing used with pumps is also an important part of the equation. Using the wrong plumbing can cause friction, hindering the performance of your pump and affecting the power of your waterfall.

We believe that the Flexible PVC is the best for pond projects. It will handle sharp turns and tight corners and also expands and contracts with seasonal changes.

…1.5 inch pipe has a maximum flow rate of 2200 GPH

…2 inch pipe has a maximum fow rate of 4800 GPH

So you can see that pipe selection is very important.

Check Valve
The check valve helps prevent water from back flushing into the pond when the power to your pump is cut. The reason this is important is because you need to keep water in your biological filter so that the beneficial bacteria can continue to grow. The bacteria will die in two hours without water.

Other terms
Discharge – The opening of the pump where the water is expelled.

Impeller – The part of the pump that pushes the water. It generally has fins or blades.

Shaft – The shaft is what spins the impeller. It is generally located inside the motor housing.

Motor – The motor is what drives the pump. The shaft attaches to the motor.

Impeller Housing – This is where the impeller sits and is allowed to spin.

Now you really know how that pump works.

Planning: Sizing Your Pump!

Minimize friction losses by using large diameter pipe. Determine the approximate flow rate that you want, the head height, and the total length of pipe. Consult a Friction Loss Chart to choose the proper diameter pipe.

You can calculate your total head at www.pump-world.com. You will need to know the following:

1. The overall height
2. The pipe run and diameter of pipe
3. The maximum rated flow for the pump

The size of the pump’s suction and discharge ports DO NOT dictate your proper pipe size. Choose a pipe diameter that keeps your friction loss below about 6 feet per 100 feet of pipe. The longer your run of pipe, the more critical it is to minimize your friction loss. Normally, a minimum of 2 inch line is suggested for systems with flow rates from 30 to 50 gallons per minute or 1800 to 3000 gallons per hour.

Use a filtration system that DOES NOT require a lot of pressure. It costs MONEY to create pressure. Biological filters and BIOFALLS® filters work well and require no pressure.

Pipe Diameter Max GPH
1.5 inches……………….. 2,200
2 inch……………………… 4,800
Two 2 inch pipe……….. 9,600
3 inch……………………..10,500

Remember to consider the width of your stream when it enters the pond. You will need 1500 to 2000 GPH for each foot of stream when it comes into the pond.

NEVER run a pump dry. This will damage the seal and impeller. They are designed to pump water, not air. Insure the pump is submerged in water before you turn it on, and be sure it does not out-pump the supply.

If your pump is producing too much flow, you can reduce the flow by partially closing a valve (Ball valve) on the discharge line near its outlet (NEVER RESTRICT THE INLET). Also never restrict more than a quarter turn.

If more flow is required than a single pump can produce, use two or more pumps. This also offers the benefits of being able to vary the flow rates; this can often save a substantial amount of electricity compared to using one very large pump.

Choose a pump that can give you the required flows at the lowest possible AMP draw.

If you have any further questions, please send to info@aquascapes.com

Aquascapes.com

877 780-1174

What is a Pondless waterfall?

Yes it is what you think it is a waterfall with no pond and no fish.  You know not everyone wants a pond with the maintenance of plants and fish but everyone enjoys a great looking waterfall with the serene sound of water to ease the tensions of our busy workdays.

Advantages of the Pondless Waterfall

• Fits into small spaces.
• Perfect for people where child safety or the liabilities of a pond may be a concern.
• Virtually maintenance free!  Simple refill the reservoir every week or add water automatically with an auto fill valve.
• Great alternative for a front yard pond.
• No ecological need to run the system continuously.  Can be shut off with a timer or shut down during vacation time.
• No fish to maintain or be concerned about.

What would I want a Pondless® Waterfall?

Do you have memories of a gorgeous mountain stream and waterfalls you saw as a child on your walks in the woods?  You can still hear the water as it gushes over the rocky stream and hits against the wet rocks.  Imagine that you can receive this picture in your very own backyard.  It’s perfect for those who want the sound of water but not the maintenance of a pond.

Where does the water come from and where does it go?

A Pondless waterfall actually works much like the equipment in a pond.   A basin, usually deeper than a pond, is dug and then underlayment and liner is put down in this basin.   Then we figure up how many matrix boxes you will need according to the size of the basin.   Water Matrix boxes are snap together sides that form a spacer in the basin and these spacers allow your basin to hold more water in the basin.  This means less maintenance of filling because of evaporation loss while saving on the amount of boulders in the basin.  You can hold up to 7 times more water.

The basin also hold a Snorkel which houses the pump and check valve, centipede which helps direct the water to the pump.  Then the rock is placed on top of the water matrix boxes and toped with decorative gravel.

The pipe is connected to the check valve and heads up hill to the waterfall box.  This box aids in the ease with designing a waterfall.  The liner of the stream is attached to this box and you build your waterfall and stream from here.

So as an overview, your pump housed in the snorkel pumps up to the waterfall box which flows down the stream into the basin and completely re-circulating system.  Since the water level in the reservoir basin never pools above the level of the rock and gravel fill, it gives the appearance of a Pondless® Waterfall.

Pondless: Winterizing Pondless Waterfalls

This is very important information.

It has been recommended by the manufacturer that those of you who live in Zone 1 (very north) to Zone 6 (parts of the east, Northern parts of the south, mountain areas) should remove the pump in the Pondless. Also don’t forget to disconnect the check valve. Check valves have been known to freeze causing a leak in the spring. This also assures you that the pipe has been emptied.

Pump should be submerged in water in an area that will not freeze.

If you leave your pondless running, and I know it can create beautiful ice sculptures but you will have to replenish the water very often. You lose more water in the winter than in the summer. If your pondless gets low, it will suck the pump dry and will damage it. 

If you live in milder areas of the country, you can just disconnect the check valve  from the pipe and leave the pump in the water as long as the freeze line will not reach the actual pump.  If the pump would freeze it could damage to the pump and will cause the check valve to crack.  It is best sometimes to make the decision early so you are not dealing with a frozen basin.  The checkvalve will freeze first since it is close to the surface.

So in a nut shell, the advice is to shut the pondless down and remove the pump in all climates except those that do not get below 20 degrees and where a freeze only lasts a few days. Remember when running, your basin still needs water.

Happy Pondering,
Aquascapes.com

877 780-1174
info@aquascapes.com